In the age-old American fat wars, it's now Gary Taubes versus C. Everett Koop. Ice cream good? Carrots bad? Why must we be obsessed with that which passes through our gullets? Of course, today's The New York Times is on board with the myth that the argument has just begun: "The notion that fatty foods shorten your life began as a hypothesis based on dubious assumptions and data," reports John Tierney. "The evidence against Haagen-Dazs was nothing like the evidence against Marlboros." Until, of course, Hagen-Dazs returns to the status of verboten.